With its outlandish customs and peculiar residents, the ancient village of Malana in Himachal Pradesh tickles the fancy of every inquisitive traveller. Text & photographs by Ron Bezbaruah

The village of Malana is covered in a blanket of snow during winter and looks like a holiday postcard.

With a childish giggle, I extended my arm to aid my six-foot-tall friend, who struggled to stand straight. With feet slipping in the snow and legs involuntarily split, his skating stance wasn’t exactly graceful. Out of nowhere, a little boy appeared. With a wide grin, he offered his tiny hand to my friend, and with a slight tug, got him out of his predicament before disappearing in the snow. Such are the children of Malana, strong yet kind souls with far too much wisdom in their eyes.

In this ancient village of Himachal Pradesh, time seems to have stood still. Nestled in the Parvati Valley, Malana lies isolated from the rest of the country, in the shadow of Chanderkhani and Deo Tibba. And though the ‘Forbidden Land’ title lifted when the village opened its doors to tourists, the history of the Malani people remains shrouded in mystery and is often the subject of urban gossip. It is said that Malana is one of the oldest democratic systems of the world. Malanis have distinct physical features and a unique dialect. The brown-eyed, long-nosed inhabitants claim that they are descendants
of the soldiers of Alexander the Great. They marry within the community to maintain their ‘pure’ bloodline, and due to strict upper-caste beliefs, tend to be a bit hostile towards outsiders—no tourist is allowed to touch them or their belongings.

Malana
Two sisters take a break from their daily chores and admire the first snowfall of the year.

While the men spend their days lazing around and smoking a chillum, save for the occasional trek to the peaks to hunt, the women rough it out, chopping and collecting firewood, tending to the children, and keeping the house running. They also look after the enigmatic marijuana fields of the region, which produce some of the finest hashish in the world called Malana Cream. The school is open all year round, through the calm summers and harsh winters. After classes, the kids roam about on their own, clambering up and down the valley, engaging in mud fights, sledging, or just bumming around. They are usually friendly and may even try to sell you some Malana Cream!

Malana is centred around Temple Jamlu, where prophecies are told and weddings and other
festivities are held. Jamlu is the primary deity of Malana, and every decision regarding the village is communicated by the deity oracle. The temple is also rumoured to house swords of Alexander’s army. A hefty fine of `3,500 is levied on any outsider who touches the temple walls.

A little boy stands next to a giant pine tree atop a hill and observes a white wall of snow approaching the village from across the ridge.

Despite its quirks, the village remains one of my most unique escapades. From getting lost in a blizzard to nodding off under a 200-year-old pine tree, to being invited by locals for a drag from their chillums, it gave me timeless experiences.

Malana sits at an altitude of 3,029 metres, between the Chanderkhani pass and the Deo Tibba peak.
Winters can get harsh with 12-15 inches of snowfall, hence trekking through these parts isn’t for the fainthearted.
Malana
Children walk to the village school on a winter morning, getting into snowball fights en route.
Malana Himachal
A Malani man carries his son downhill.
The kids often spend the winter indoors, cooped up around family fires that stay lit all day long and leave the entire village blanketed with a thin layer of smoke.
The residents of Malana have Mediterranean features—light-brown eyes and long noses. They claim to be ‘pure-blood descendants’ of the soldiers of Alexander the Great’s army.
Malana Himachal
It is fairly common to see kids strolling around the village alone.
Malana
Heavy snowfall often shuts the motorable route to the village, leaving just a back road that the locals use to get rations, a fairly tricky path with patches of soft snow on a cliff edge.
Malana
The children of Malana are usually more friendly than the elders and readily pose for photographs.

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