The mere mention of Dubai tends to merit images of steely high rises and speedy highways, of malls and markets to shop. But it’s a quaint corner of the Bastakiya Quarter that you must make your way to, to see Dubai’s old soul. Al Fahidi roundabout is at the heart of this historical neighbourhood and it is anything but forgotten, thanks to a new surge of art galleries and coffee houses that keep its culture alive and buzzing. Off one of its streets lies XVA Gallery, which in itself is one of my favourite reasons to visit. The unassuming entrance to Al Fahidi courtyard café barely reveals its role as an art gallery for modern art installations. If you find it hard to leave, check in to the hotel for the night amidst sounds of the neighbouring mosque and souks. Sweet dreams are made of these.